I recently spent 4 days in Split. I was heading home from our Taste of Sicily tour but took the opportunity to spend a few days in Croatia. I was on a mission to visit my Pops village. That’s a story for another time. Let’s just say I survived my first time driving on the wrong/right side of the road and Croatian motorways where the speed limit is a whopping 135km/h.
Aside from my homecoming mission I spent most of my time in search of a schnitzel. The last time I visited Split (25 years ago) it was a very different place and schnitzel was them main dish on every menu. I was keen to venture down memory lane, but two decades on and a lot has changed, thankfully this includes an embracing of their cuisine even if I didn’t get my schnitzel).
Here are a few of the dishes I enjoyed.
Burek
My first night in Split was a bit of a disaster. I only just made my connecting flight in Rome. And while I made the flight my bags did not. So, I arrived late in need of the basics clean underwear and a toothbrush. With these sorted I was exhausted and hungry so grabbed a slice of burek form a little place across from where I was staying.
It turns out I may have grabbed the best Burek in town. Recently featured on Someone Fed Phill, St Burek has been serving Burek to locals and now more increasingly to tourists since 19xx
Burek is a Balkan dish of thin pastry, much like filo traditionally filled with cheese or meat and now any number of ingredients.
Crni Rižot
The black risotto is made from cuttlefish and I am told delicious. It’s not the colour that put me off but the seafood (yes it’s true I am not a seafood fan)
We (well not me) tried this at Makarun, a restaurant and hotel hidden in a private courtyard in the Old Town. From the sounds of my dining companions and the clean plates pointed to it being a great version.
Pašticada
This slow cooked beef dish is one close to many Croatian hearts as it’s a dish served at special occasions, Christmas, weddings, christenings… Believed to have its origins in the Venitian dish Pastissada de caval which used horse meat. Apparently around the time of the Fall of the Roman Empire slain horses from a battle were used to feed the starving population. The meat was saved from going bad by soaking it in wine with bay leaves and spices.
The Croatian dish uses beef, a cut we would use to make silverside. It is soaked overnight in wine, and then slowly cooked.
Traditionally served at celebrations a great Pašticada is a balance of sweet, sour, salty and bitter. Most often served with gnocchi and a glass of Croatian red wine.
Ćevapi
A common street food in Croatia, ćevapi are small meat koftes served in a pita or bun with raw onion and Ajvar (roasted pepper relish.
I enjoyed mine from the famous tiny Kantuna Paulina, which has been serving their style of Cevapi since the 1960s. Instead of pita, theirs comes in the fluffiest bread bun.
Pasta with Truffles and Pancetta
If this dish sums up Croatia I am in! Pasta, truffles, pancetta washed down with a glass of Zinfandel.
Quite rightly the Zinfandel is probably not the best match for a truffle dish, but it is my favourite wine variety and came to learn it’s origins are Croatian, not Puglia s I thought.
Istria in northern Croatia is known for their truffles, while the local salty pancetta is also made in the north of the country where it is air dried. Together with the pasta from the Romans, you have a perfect dish (in my opinion).
Gelato
I swear there are more gelato stores in Split than in Italy! I’m no longer an ice cream girl but when in Rome, or in this case Split!
First up it was on a walking tour of the old town where I tried Bili San. I am told it is a local favourite and uses only the best ingredients. And if you are in the know you ask for a chocolate dip.
I was later enticed to try another at Gelateria Emiliana as it was on the corner by my accommodation and I would walk by it 5-6 times a day. I loved the open kitchen so you could see the gelato being made and then when I enquired about a few flavours I had to try the chocolate, rum and cherry, and I was not disappointed.
Fresh plums and figs
It was autumn when I visited and the market was full of small deep purple plums with a sweet yellow flesh. I also picked up some gorgeous plump figs and enjoyed their sun ripened sweetness.
Want a real taste of Croatia? Join us in June on our Taste of Croatia tour, more details here.
What to eat in Split, Croatian food, Eating in Croatia, Croatian cuisine
