We begin our Taste of Sicily tour in the Palermo. I love Palermo! It wears its history and scars on its sleeve. But just when you think it’s a little gritty you will discover something wonderful, shiny byzantine mosaics, stunning architecture, the smiles and music of the market vendors calls.
Palermo’s long history has formed a rich tapestry that is evident on its streets as well as its food. To eat well in Palermo is not hard. Even in high tourist zones you won’t be disappointed. But before you dive in decide what you are after.
A view, a cocktail and the perfect instagram shot to make friends back home jealous?
Or a taste of history, with no frills?
A budget friendly bite between sight-seeing?
To practice your Italian and rub shoulders with the locals?
Here are some of my suggestions.
Cheap Eats
Some would say the best food in Sicily has always been cheap food. Some of the best food in Sicily are dishes that weren’t born in fancy kitchens, but came from desperation and hunger. No money for meat? No problem – fry some chickpea flour and call it a day.
Palermo is not just the capital of street food, it invented it! Here eating with your hands is a cultural experience.
Must Trys
- Pane e Panelle (Chickpea fritters sandwich)
Crispy chickpea fritters stuffed inside soft bread. Carbs on carbs, like only the Italians can do. - Arancina (Fried rice ball)
The king of Palermo street food. Deep-fried, stuffed with ragu or ham and cheese, and the best have a gorgeous crisp shell. Better still washed down with a cold beer.
- Sfincione (Sicilian pizza)
Fluffy, saucy, and loaded with onions. Don’t call it pizza—it’s sfincione.
- Pane con la Milza (Spleen sandwich)
True Sicilians love this dish that even though it may sound (and I admit smell) scary, you only live once, so give it a go! I recommend the cheap wine in a plastic bottle to wash it down for the full experience. - Crocchè (Potato croquettes)
Deep-fried mashed potatoes. Do I need to say more?
Arancina or arancino? In Palermo, it’s arancina. Call it arancino, and someone might correct you—passionately. In Palermo they are also round like and orange, as you near Mount Etna the Arancina changes shape to mimic the famous volcano.
On our Taste of Sicily tour we taste all of these and more as we wander through the markets of Ballarò and Vucciria. And we always stop for the best Arancina at Dainotti’s da Arianna.
Drinks
Cheers with locals at Botteghe Colletti (Via Alessandro Paternostro, 77)
Nestled in the heart of Palermo, this is a local haunt you’ll love. Celebrated for its exceptional cocktail offerings the seats spill out on the pavement the perfect spot on a balmy Sicilian night.
If Botteghe Colletti are too busy head next door to dal Barone
Soak up the View at Seven Restaurant Rooftop Garden(Hotel Ambasciatori, Via Roma, n°111)
If you are after a breathtaking view for either an aperitivo or dinner this is a great choice. The menu’s modern more than Sicilian, but you’re here for the view remember.
Enjoy a pub crawl Palermo style head into the Historic Centre and explore the alleys off Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Roma. Or head to Piazza Verdi, situated near the Teatro Massimo.
Pizza
Caffè del Kassaro (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 390)
Casual pizza and pasta restaurant on the main drag.
Locale (Via Francesco Guardione 88)
Super hip spot for pizza, small plates and cocktails.
The Real Deal
Antica Focacceria San Francesco (58 Via Alessandro Paternostro)
Taste authentic Palermo street food and get a slice of history at the same time. The crowds outside Antica Focacceria may scream tourist trap, but this might just be one I would recommend. Long on Lonely Planets must visit list this spot is one to visit for its heritage possibly more than the food much of which you can get better versions of in the markets of Palermo). Opening its doors in 1834 there are many legends and legendary people associated with Antica Focacceria.
Giuseppe Garibaldi supposedly camped there during the Expedition of the Thousand in 1860. They are reputed to have introduced the Palermo public to the now Sicilian classic pasta ch’i sardi, a dish previously reserved only for royal dining.
Five generations in the same family they are known for standing against Cosa Nostra by refusing to pay the ‘pizzu’, or protection money. The restaurant was in fact almost alone in making this stand; a move which meant one of its two owners had to settle in mainland Italy. This is also how Antica Focaccerie spawned in Milan and Rome.
Sold in 2000 to CIRFOOD, you may see more Antica Focaccerie throughout Italy, but don’t miss your chance to experience the original.
Trattoria da Pino (Via dello Spezio, 6)
Established in the 1960s, Trattoria da Pino has been run by the Pipitone family for three generations. Giovanni and Giuseppe – the son and grandson of the original owner, respectively, an uncle-and-nephew team – run the place these days.
This is a great place to experience a small slice of everyday Palermitan life as you sit with locals enjoying authentic Sicilian food and conversation.
Trattoria Piccolo Napoli (Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4)
Seventy-year-old Trattoria Piccolo Napoli is a typically Palermitano family-run restaurant– it even made the late Anthony Bourdain’s favourite Sicilian restaurant list. Expect hearty welcomes all round and lots of wood, but you’re not here for the décor so get to ordering Bourdain’s picks: panelle, caponata (chopped fried aubergine in tomato sauce, celery, olives, and capers), spaghetti al nero di seppia (cuttlefish ink spaghetti), casarecce al pesce spada (pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomatoes). Piccolo Napoli is off-the-tourist-trail, but you’ll need to book ahead as it’s a favourite with locals (and savvy tourists).
By the way don’t watch the Anthony Bourdain episode on Sicily – it was a real let down! And that’s coming from a huge Anthony Bourdain and Sicily fan.
A Little More Fancy
Ristorante Quattro Mani (Via Francesco Riso, 3)
With a commitment to high-quality, organic ingredients and sophisticated cooking techniques, this family-owned restaurant is one of my favourites. Known for their acclaimed swordfish pasta dish, of which I cannot attest too due to my seafood aversion!
Il Culinario, is a Michelin-recognized restaurant known for its creative twists on Sicilian classics.
Other notable spots include Bisso Bistrot with its belle époque ambiance and L’Ottava Nota for innovative dishes.
Gagini isA Michelin-starred restaurant known for its sophisticated reinterpretation of Sicilian cuisine.
Chill Out
Q-Tuppo
Granita is a Sicilian speciality and traditionally served with a brioche bun. Q-Tuppo make both theirs following a historic recipe. Find them just through the Porto Nuova; the historic gateway to the city.
Belli Freschi Gelati (Piazza del Ponticello, 3)
Generous portions and reasonable prices served by friendly staff. Most definitely one of the best gelato spots in Palermo, if not Sicily
To really experience Sicily and enjoy the food and wine while learning more about this Islands history, join us on our Taste of Sicily Tour. Like all our tours it is a small group, bespoke tour that will give you a real taste of place!
